Taking the Train

When we arrived in Zambia, we weren't exactly sure how we would get to our next destination. Taking a coach across the border into Tanzania would be slightly less expensive perhaps, but would also mean long rides on overnight buses (not to mention being cramped on a bus for the better part of 40+ hours). The only other option for travel between the two countries is the Tanzanian-Zambian Railway (or TAZARA for short) which runs a whopping two trains per week, is estimated to take 24 hours, and is only reliable when it comes to one thing: it's virtually always late. And we're not talking twenty minutes or even an hour late, we're talking days late. After weighing our options, and talking to many people in Zambia, we decided to take the train. We'd heard it was an awesome experience in spite of (or perhaps even because of) the lengthy delays, and we figured it would be the better option.

We boarded the train in the afternoon and were put in separate compartments for men and women, although fortunately they were right next-door to each other. Although we had bought first class tickets, the compartments we were in fell well below the level of cleanliness you would find on any train in the Western world. Sheets and blankets were provided in first class, but they were obviously unwashed. In fact, it was apparent the whole train never got much more than a quick sweep and mop. About an hour into the ride, a staff member came down the isle passing out water, soap, and toilet paper to the first class passengers-- more “perks” the other two classes did not receive. The standards, if they exist at all here, are incredibly different from those we are used to.

To our great surprise, the train left the station in Kapiri Mposhi exactly on time and remained that way throughout most of the trip. We spent most of the afternoon lounging and playing cards in the dining car and then crawled into our bunks early and settled in for the night. The train was an old one and it was a bumpy, jolty ride. The night was no exception and we both remained in a state of partial sleep, waking frequently when the train stopped or the conductor slammed on the breaks too hard. Regardless, we were happy to at least be able to lay down horizontally to sleep and to get up and move around when our muscles needed it (both luxuries we have too often gone without while traveling from place to place).

As we passed by huts and small villages, children would come running out along dirt paths waving and chasing after us. Each time we stopped, villagers would approach the train carrying bowls and baskets of food and offering it to the passengers on board. At the stations, children would gather between the tracks scrutinizing us through the windows, waving, or soliciting “gifts”. At one station, where there was a particularly large group of children gathered, I took out some candies I had in my bag and began tossing them out the window. They completely freaked out! The kids started scrambling and pushing each other in their efforts to catch the sweets, and I tossed carefully, trying to give some of the shorter children a chance. All of a sudden, one particularly greedy and clever child came flying up out of nowhere and grabbed the candies out of my hand! Without my seeing him, he had run parallel along the train for a ways, gaining enough speed to jump all the way up to the window (a good 7 or so feet off the ground) and snatch the whole bag. Before I knew what had happened, he had taken off down the tracks with his loot and the whole crowd of kids chasing after him. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted.

As we crossed the border, guys came on board carrying huge stacks of Tanzanian shillings and offering to change our money. We knew they would be offering us a lousy deal, but didn't have very much Zambian money left, so we took them up on it, figuring it would be easier than finding a bank. Other entrepreneurs were selling Tanzanian SIM cards and air time, which we also purchased. How convenient!

The countrysides of both Zambia and Tanzania are absolutely beautiful. To get to see so much of it from the train was especially nice. All in all, we had a great time on the train and are glad we went that route. Everything about Africa is an experience, and moving from place to place is certainly no exception.